It is here,

…where the vibrant color of the cool water brings life to a withered soul

…where the gentle roar of the flowing river becomes an old man’s lullaby

…where the taste of a cheap instant noodles is the best dinner ever

…where an arduous 10 mile hike with a 30 lbs pack is worth it

…where life disconnected is beautiful

It is here,

…a paradise on earth. The Falls of Havasupai.

The Planning Stage.

This adventure was conceived last year when I marked 2 dates on my calendar: Jan 8 and Feb 1.  What is so special about these dates?  Jan 8 is when an account can be created at HavasupaiReservations.com, and Feb 1 is when the registration for camping reservation opens.  This paradise on earth is on the Havasupai Indian Reservation land,  in Supai, AZ, and a reservation is required to get there.  Starting 2019, camping reservation is for 3 nights / 4 days.  No day hikes allowed.  Reservations can only be made online via their website.  Detailed information can be found on their website @ HavasupaiReservations.com.

Feb 1, at 8:00 AZ time, is when campground reservations for the entire 2019 season opens.  And reservations for the entire year get filled in a matter of hours on that day.  You need to have flexibility on your dates when checking for availability.

My experience.  It was a frustrating experience trying to get some dates.  The site would go down, the dates I’ve picked would become unavailable, repeatedly…  I was ready to give up.  Patience paid off when I started looking for dates starting March.  And I got past the whole reservation process for these dates – March 31-April 03. 

And so it was set.

The Day Before and The Day After.

It is a 10 mile strenuous hike from the trailhead to the Havasupai campground.  It is highly recommended to stay the night before (and after) in the nearest town before (and after) this adventure.  Peach Springs, AZ is the nearest town to the trailhead, 66 miles away, with very limited lodging.  The next town is Kingman, AZ, 118 miles away.  I stayed in Kingman before and after this backpacking adventure.  Peach Springs is a small town along the old Rt 66, and has the Hualapai Lodge offering lodging accommodation.  It is worth noting that given more time, it is recommended to explore this small town and the nearby attractions like the Grand Canyon Caverns and the Grand Canyon West

The Trailhead.

The trailhead (google Havasupai Trailhead / Hualapai Hilltop) is at the end of Indian Rd 18, 60 miles away from Rt 66.  There are no facilities or services at the trailhead, just an end of the road parking lot, where the journey to Havasupai begins.   It is imperative that you have enough gas before driving to the trailhead.  Peach Springs has 1 gas station, which may or may not be open.  I had my tank full when I left Kingman.    

The 60 mile span of Indian Rd 18 is already part of the Indian Reservation.  Paved, with no intersections or traffic lights.  There was a security check point 3 miles to the trailhead / parking lot.  Rangers were checking and making sure that people driving to the trailhead have proper reservations.  I had to park almost half a mile away from the trailhead because the parking lot was full.

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The Hike Out.

The journey is a 10 mile strenuous hike, 8 miles to the village + 2 miles to the campground.  It is a descent from the Hualapai Hilltop down to the canyons of Havasupai.  The 1st 2 miles is the most challenging section, with switchbacks and steep grades, followed by the flat section on the dry and rocky canyon wash all the way to the village.  This is a shade-less hike, and it’s highly recommended to start the hike as early as possible to avoid the scorching heat.  Some shades from the canyon walls provide some relief as you get closer to the village area.  There is no water source on the trail, so it’s important to have enough water for the whole hike duration.  The average time for this hike is 4 to 6 hours.  Included in my 30 lbs pack is a 50oz bladder with water + 2 24oz flasks with Tailwind.  It took me 4 hrs to get to the campground. 

You are never alone on the trail.  There are hikers on the trail starting their adventures just like you.  And there are hikers coming back from theirs.  Rangers also patrol the trail checking for reservation information.

There are alternative options to get to the Havasupai campground without the back-breaking hiking experience.  One is to charter a helicopter from the trailhead to the village.  The other is to do the hike without the heavy pack, using the Pack Mule service for your pack/s.  Details can be found on the Havasupai Reservation website. 

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The Village.

You will enter the village after hiking 8 miles.  There is a sign asking hikers not to take any pictures upon entering the village. 

You have to check in to the tourism office before proceeding to the campground.  You will be given a wristband and a tent tag for your stay. 

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There was a small store that sells food before getting to the tourism office.  I was not hungry but it was just time for a quick break.  I ordered the Indian Taco / Fry Bread and was surprised at the size of the serving!

The Campground.

Finally, after 10 miles, the campground. You know you have reached the campground when you started hearing the splash of a water fall. And then you are greeted by the sight of the highlight of this trip – the Havasu Falls. The black and white photo of the Havasu Falls was taken from the viewpoint on the side of the trail, just before descending to the campground.

The campground is a mile stretch alongside the river banks, between Havasu Falls (front section of the campground) and Mooney Falls (rear section). Camping is permitted on any available spot you see. No designated camp sites. There are several composting toilet facilities in the campground. There is a tap water source, a natural spring, suitable for drinking without any need for filtration. The campsite is very clean. Time now to find your spot.

My recommendation. Find a spot a little farther away from the front section of the campground, where you can see the flowing river next to the trail. And, if you can, find one with a picnic table. This will come in very useful when preparing your meal/s and when packing your gear at the end of your adventure.

On my arrival, all the ideal spots were taken. I set camp next to the river, and moved to a better location the day after, when the hiker occupying that spot left.

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Food Setup.

My food set up for 3 days consisted of the following:

Breakfast: Coffee x2, Clif Bar, Egg (if not eaten in dinner)

Lunch/Snack: Clif Bar, Trail Mix, Maple Syrup, Tuna/Salmon Pack (if not eaten in dinner)

Dinner: Instant Noodles, Egg, Tuna/Salmon Pack

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The Falls.

The highlight of this adventure – the falls. These are the 5 water falls in the Havasupai Reservation.

Fifty Foot Falls and Little Navajo Falls.

These are located before the campground, between the village and the campground. You can get a glimpse of Little Navajo from the trail to the campground.

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Havasu Falls.

The main attraction. You will see so many wonderful images of this water fall when you search the web. It is right in the entrance of the campground. With turquoise-colored water, and very calming landscape, it really is worth the trip. You can just spend your trip coming here every day.

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Mooney Falls.

Bigger and meaner than Havasu Falls. Located at the rear section of the campground. The campground is on the upper level of Mooney Falls, whereas it is on lower level of Havasu Falls. You really can’t see how big this fall is, unless you climb down to the bottom. And that means, going down the dreaded ladders, just kidding… It only looks scary looking from the top 🙂

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Beaver Falls.

Beavers Falls is 2 miles farther away the campground, past Mooney Falls. You have to get down Mooney Falls and follow the trail to get to Beaver Falls. The hike is relatively easy, with stream crossings that could go as high as waist. It is not recommended to do the hike during inclement weather as flash floods could happen.

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The Experience.

On my arrival, after setting up camp, I spent the rest of the day resting because of that back breaking hike. I felt like I was floating the moment I unloaded my pack. This was a first for me – backpacking with a 30 lbs pack. It was a bit chilly at night, and I was happy to have brought my fleece jacket and my thermoball jacket. I went to Mooney Falls / Beaver Falls the next day, then to Fifty Foot Falls / Little Navajo the 3rd day. What I’ve missed on this trip was a camera tripod. Some of slow shutter speed shots I’ve taken were shaky and blurry. I woke up at night, got out of my tent to see the very clear and very bright view of the Big Dipper. I tried to capture it without a tripod, but was unsuccessful.

Dinner with a hot soup, instant noodles, was really appreciated. I considered these dinners the best meals I’ve ever had, beating any overpriced steaks you get from overpriced restaurants.

The Hike Back.

The hike back is little more challenging than the hike out. The last 2 miles is an ascent from the flat section on the canyon wash to the Hilltop trailhead. You just have to tackle it and be excited to see your car still parked in one piece. You are now closer to having signal where you can share the thousand photos you have taken from this adventure 🙂

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Epilogue.

This is one adventure I highly recommend to anyone. You can do the whole shebang like I did. Or you can opt to 1) lighten your load and use the Pack Mule service, or 2) do the helicopter route to get to and from the village. They also have a lodging option if camping is not your idea of luxurious accommodation. Either way, put this in your bucket list and make it happen. It is an experience of a lifetime.

And when you do, please remember that you will be entering a private land. You are a mere guest to this land. Treat the land with respect. Obey the rules of the land.

Reference Websites

The Official Havasupai Tribe Website

Havasupai Indian Reservation | NPS.gov

Havasupai Reservations